Kartouche

This little spot, calling itself a Belgian culinary bistro, just opened on Rue Defacqz. Chef Géry, after honing his skills at Nénu, decided to dedicate himself to Belgian cuisine — the kind he grew up with at his grandmother’s table, but also the kind that elevates classics like potatoes, croquettes, and asparagus.

Speaking of croquettes, we kicked things off with the beef cheek bitterballen (€10) — absolutely to die for, and already a staple on the menu. Next came asparagus with beurre blanc, gueuze, and wild garlic (€14), and yellowtail sashimi paired with rhubarb (€14). Then it was on to pork cheek with a Sirop de Liège jus (€28) that melted in the mouth, and a red tuna “américain” — line-caught, small-boat only — that was nothing short of outstanding (€31).

A huge favorite overall, especially for the waffle (€9) with diplomat cream and the very first Belgian strawberries of the season, made with love by the chef using his grandmother’s cast-iron waffle maker.