Gaijin

Gaijin is the latest restaurant to take over the space that was once home to Ötap, and that’s already been through Raki, Plaisirs Coupables and even Rambo. This time, though, it looks like it’s here to stay.

The restaurant is led by chef Yrieix, who himself worked in Ötap’s kitchen back in the day, as well as at La Truffe Noire and Le Repos de la Montagne. It’s his chance to finally have a space of his own, and most importantly, a menu that feels like him. The cooking is French, fairly classic and always seasonal, with a few touches here and there that nod to his partly Japanese heritage. But above all, it’s a succession of dishes that are extremely well executed.

We had a delicious tomato and shrimp dish (22€), pollock served with Paimpol coco beans, bouchot mussels and dashi (31€), and lamb cooked to absolute perfection with miso ratatouille (36€). We finished with a fig and grapefruit tartlet, served with honey and vanilla butter (14€).

I also had the chance to try a Negroni Sbagliato, at my request, and it was simply perfect. As for the atmosphere, the interior, which we already loved, has barely changed. The result is an elegant, intimate feel, with genuinely attentive service.

A very lovely addition to the neighborhood.